April 1801, England
Banks appalled
Prominent patron on the sciences, Sir Joseph Banks, has described
as preposterous the suggestion that Captain Matthew Flinders should
be permitted to take his wife with him on his voyage of discovery
to New South Wales. Flinders, who married Ann Chappelle on April
17th, is expected to leave Spithead for New Holland within the
next two months. He has been appointed Captain of HMS Investigator
with a commission to chart the entire, and largely unknown, coastline
of New Holland. He expects to be away from England for at least
two years.
May 1801, England
Flinders ready to go
Captain Matthew Flinders, who is currently loading H.M.S. Investigator
with provisions, denies that he is putting the lives of his men
at risk. 'By replacing ten of the long guns with lighter canons
I will be able to carry an extra 10 tons of water which will bring
the total water load to 60 tons' he explained. 'And I stress that
my expedition is a scientific one. My cabin library will include
the Encyclopaedia Britannica, presented to me by Sir Joseph Banks.'
Captain Flinders hopes to reach the continent he has named Terra
Australis in time for the southern summer. 'I am sure that the
passport issued to me by the French government will protect me
from hostilities while in French waters' Flinders said.
His voyage of discovery is seen by some observers as a response
to current French exploration in the South Seas. Two French ships,
Le Géographe and Le Naturaliste, are reported to be somewhere
between Mauritius and Timor at present. Their Captains, Baudin
and Hamelin, lead a scientific expedition to collect specimens
and explore the unknown coastline of the great south land.
May 1801, Indian Ocean
Baudin in trouble
'It was the voyage from hell' said a sailor on board the Géographe,
'the officers and gentlemen bitching and fighting among themselves,
being stuck for weeks in the Doldrums really got them going. The
last straw was that almighty storm out of the Cape that nearly
sent us all to the bottom'.
The French expedition to New Holland, led by Captain Baudin, sailed
from Port North-West, Isle de France (Mauritius) on April 25th
He hopes to reach the west coast of New Holland in June, although
his progress has been hampered by the inability of the Naturaliste
to keep pace with him. More than half of the scientists that left
France with the expedition have decided to remain in the relative
safety and comfort offered by the French colony.
Several ships officers have also declined to travel any further
with Baudin, citing lack of confidence in his ability to lead
the voyage. However, Baudin has managed, despite obstruction by
local French officials, to repair his ships and provision the
Géographe and Naturaliste with fresh food, crucial to his hopes
for keeping his men free of scurvy during months at sea. He cannot
rely upon finding suitable foods along the shores of the unknown
South Land.
30th May 1801, Cape Leeuwin
Baudin arrives at New Holland
Eight months after leaving Le Havre, France Captain Nicolas Baudin
has sighted Cape Leeuwin, South West New Holland. Commenting on
what has been a difficult voyage Captain Baudin said "I would
not undertake such an expedition again. The scientists! Mon Dieu!
They have no idea about ship discipline. The Captain's word must
be obeyed at all times."
He described an incident when a dolphin was caught by his crew
and hauled on board Le Géographe. Everyone wanted a piece of the
action - the artists wanted to draw it, the surgeons wanted to
dissect it, the naturalists wanted it for their own studies. Baudin
was forced to intervene in the dispute. He ordered the animal
slung from the mainsail until tempers had cooled. "You will all
get your chance at it tomorrow" he promised. But the surgeons
got to it while backs were turned and it was in pieces before
anyone could stop them. To pacify the artists the Captain promised
them exclusive access to the next dolphin caught.
Unfavourable winds have forced Baudin to anchor off-shore in deep
water but within sight of camp fires along the wooded coastline.
The scientists can hardly contain their impatience to explore
the new continent.
June 1801, England
Flinders still in talks
The Investigator still lies at berth, Spithead, waiting orders
to sail from Portsmouth for Botany Bay. Captain Flinders reports
that his crew is growing restless. The men had recently been paid
and a couple of cashed-up seamen had tried to desert. Flinders
had them flogged and cancelled all shore leave.
Although only 27 years old Matthew Flinders shows a good understanding
of naval discipline. He has assembled the entire crew of the Investigator
to witness the 'flogging round the fleet' of four seamen convicted
by court martial of serious crimes at sea. Each sentenced man
is tied upright on grating mounted in the bow of a ship's boat.
The boat is rowed alongside each ship in port and the prisoner
given 12 lashes with cat-o-nine-tails by the bosun's mate. The
mates tend to compete with each other. A naval surgeon makes sure
the prisoner is fit for the next round of flogging - but pity
help the prisoner in busy ports such as Portsmouth. He could get
more than 1000 lashes from 'the cat'.
Captain Flinders has been called to London for more talks with
the Admiralty. He has been accompanied by his wife, Anne.
July 1801
First footprints
The two French ships have anchored in Géographe Bay, Western Australia.
"I was concerned that a freshening northerly wind could see us
wrecked on the beach off Wonnerup Inlet, but I agreed to a trip
ashore." explained Captain Baudin "after all, that's what we're
here for!". He and Captain Hamelin each took a ships boat with
sailors and scientists to explore the coast. Before they even
reached the beach they met their first Aborigine busily fishing
with a spear in waist-deep water. He was not at all pleased at
their interruption, and after giving them a piece of his mind
he gathered up his impressive collection of spears and disappeared
into the Sandhill's. Once ashore the Frenchmen found footprints
in the muddy banks of a brackish lake and a well dug just beyond
it which contained clear, sweet water. Undeterred by their first
encounter with the locals they hurried toward a man and woman
camped on the lake's edge. This couple were so alarmed by the
appearance of the French that the man ran into the tee-tree swamp
and the woman hid her face in fear, unable to move.
The explorers split into two groups. The scientists spent the
day recording the abundant waterfowl in the area and marvelling
at the majesty of the black swan. Captain Baudin was disappointed,
however at their failure to find a large source of fresh water.
"I cannot imagine there ever being a European settlement in this
barren place" he said. "Without water, what can you do?"
July 1801
Men stranded
Captain Baudin, encouraged by the scientists to believe that they
may yet find a large river that emptied into Géographe Bay, sent
a long boat and two ship's boats ashore under the command of Captain
Hamelin to have another look around. During the day, while the
men were busy exploring inland, freshening winds drove the longboat
up onto the beach where it could not be re-floated.
Captain Hamelin spent 24 hours in one of the ship's boats battling
rough seas that broke continuously over him and his crew before
eventually reaching his ship, the Naturalist. He signalled the
news to Captain Baudin that the rest of the party of sailors and
scientists were still on the beach. The stranded men later described
how they spent several cold and miserable days and nights, with
only a few ships biscuits soaked in sea water, some rice, 3 bottles
of rum and 15 pints of water between them.
They struggled to keep their camp fire going, spending sleepless
nights worrying about attacks from the local tribes. Foraging
parties brought back a seagull and some wild celery which they
boiled into a soup. "It gave most of us a terrible guts ache"
one of the sailors said, "which just made us all the more miserable".
They could see no sign of the Géographe or the Naturaliste beyond
the roaring surf that broke on the beach. "We wondered if we would
ever see our mates again, let alone see la France." They were
eventually rescued, but it cost the life of one of the strongest
and best of men. His name was Timothy Vasse.
July 1801
Flinders sails at last
Captain Flinders sailed from Spithead on July 18th 1801, 10 months
after the French expedition which is currently exploring the west
coast of Australia. Flinders knew before he left England that
his ship, the Investigator, was in doubtful condition for such
a long journey. "The dockyard officers at Sheerness told me she
was not seaworthy but I could not risk complaint about it. This
voyage is so important to me, I could not bear to put it at risk."
he explained.
Just how weak the ship was became apparent as they cleared the
English Channel. The crew reported that as they reached the open
ocean the ship began leaking at the rate of 3" per hour. Some
of the rigging beams were so rotten that they crumbled when a
sailor lent upon them. Captain Flinders did the only thing he
could. He anchored at Madeira for extensive repairs to his ship.
While there he visited the local markets and paid dearly for fresh
water, meat and wine. "At least the fruit and vegetables were
cheap" he laughed, "and they are of far greater value for my men's
health".
A couple of weeks later, off the African coast heavy swells hammered
the ship and all the careful repair work was undone. The oakum
that had been worked into the ships seams broke lose and once
again the Investigator was taking water. Flinders rearranged the
cargo, moving the spare rudder, two cannons and some stores to
below decks. In this way he made the vessel less top heavy which
kept it from rolling so badly and helped mitigate the leaking.
Flinders was happy, after such a stressful start, to allow his
crew to celebrate the crossing of the equator with plenty of rum
ration and the traditional dunking in the ocean.
July 1801
French head north
With winter upon him, Captain Baudin has decided to make for Timor.
He will continue his exploration of the south coasts of New Holland
during the summer. June storms in Géographe Bay had separated
the two French ships and they both headed for Rottnest Island,
the agreed first rendezvous point. Baudin found the weather there
just as bad and set sail for Shark Bay, the second meeting place.
He was not to know that Captain Hamelin, in the Naturaliste, waited
for him at Rottnest for 10 anxious days before making for Shark
Bay himself. "I could not understand why we missed the Géographe"
Hamelin stated, "in the end, my officers convinced me that Captain
Baudin had gone straight to Shark Bay. The wait has cost us valuable
time and resources".
Great numbers of whales escorted the Géographe into Shark Bay
"So close it would have been an easy matter to shoot them" commented
one of his men, "but what would be the good, they are too big
to kill with gunshot".
Captain Baudin made a short survey of the Bay, then established
a camp on Bernier Island at it northern entrance. There was plenty
to discover. The scientists revelled in the many magnificent shells,
birds and insects. The officers hunted the beautiful banded kangaroos
that lived in tunnels made through the dense shrubbery on the
island. Everyone appreciated the fresh meat which tasted very
much like wild rabbit.
The two captains had not seen each other for six weeks and neither
knew where the other was. On 13th July 1801, just 3 days before
the Naturalise would arrive, Captain Baudin sailed the Géographe
out of Shark Bay and north to Timor.
July/August 1801
Shark Bay to North-West Cape
Captain Hamelin found no evidence that the Géographe had ever
been into Shark Bay. A camp was established on Péron Peninsular
with fresh water supplied to its 30 men using a salt water still.
The Naturaliste spent 49 days at Shark Bay, repairing equipment
and surveying the coast, as they waited for Captain Baudin to
turn up. It was not hard to put up with, warm dry weather made
a welcome change. The French marvelled as great pods of whales
leapt in synchronised pairs around the ship. They were not so
keen on the hundreds of sharks that escorted their ships boat
to shore. "I tell you, mon ami, we did not even think about going
for a swim!" laughed one of the sailors.
Meanwhile, two thousand kilometres to the north, Captain Baudin
was battling with 30 foot tides, uncharted reefs, shoals and islands
off The Bonaparte Archipelago. The Géographe, with a draught of
16 feet, was unable to sail the shallow coastal shelf. "I am afraid
the scientists are unhappy with me, but I cannot risk running
aground" said Captain Baudin. "In any case, I would not let them
go ashore. Too many times they have flouted my orders and not
come back to the ship on time". The waters provided plenty of
specimens anyway. They netted giant jelly fish that weighed 50
lbs, and two new species of sea snake more than 10 ft long. Around
the ship sharks, whales, and turtles were easy to observe.
After 3 weeks all this started to wear a bit thin however. Firewood
and water on board was running low, and with no fresh food for
over a month there were several scurvy cases. Everyone was longing
for Timor and on the 19th August Captain Baudin ordered the Géographe
to make for what all the men believed would be a tropical paradise.
August/September 1801
Timor treats
The Géographe sailed into Kupang Bay, Timor on 21st August 1801.
Assistant zoologist, Francois Péron was most impressed. "It is
lush, beautiful, so fertile and such a contrast to the barren
and dry coastline that we have seen of New Holland. Timorese and
officials of the Dutch East India Company welcomed the French
explorers. A procession of 100 beautifully turned out slaves escorted
the French to the home of an aristocratic Timorese widow. "Mon
Dieu! The food! Fruits, pastries, sweetmeats and preserves, all
served on silver platters by the most beautiful young women" raved
one of the Frenchmen. "Surely, heaven could not be better!"
A large house was made available to Baudin and his officers, and
another for the scientific contingent. Hospital space in a local
warehouse soon had scurvy cases recovering with fresh fruit, vegetables
and fish. The scientists were free to wander at will. They asked
a village man to fetch them some coconut milk, considering it
safer than water to drink. The athletic young man quickly climbed
a palm, picked four coconuts and descended the palm holding two
of the coconuts in his teeth and the other two in one hand.
It only took a week for signs of trouble ahead. Two men were in
hospital, one with dysentery and one with high fever. Three weeks
later there were 18 men, all with dysentery, and Baudin himself
caught malaria. His men feared that he would not live. Disease
was not the only danger. One of the expedition artists, while
chasing monkeys in the forest, was bitten on the heel by a snake.
His leg became stiff and swollen and he barely made it back to
the town. A dose of ammoniac brought on a severe sweating and
after several days rest he fully recovered.
The fate of the Naturaliste is of constant concern to the men
of the Géographe. Every day a lookout is kept for their companion
ship which has not been seen since their separation at Rottness
Island in June.
September 1801
Le Naturaliste reaches Timor
The French vessel, Naturaliste sailed into Kupang Bay, Timor on
21st September. All on board were reported to be in good health
with only two mild cases of scurvy. "I believe that the time we
spent on shore during our voyage up the western coast of New Holland
was the main reason for this" explained Captain Hamelin, "and
I have a very capable ships surgeon".
Captain Baudin however is still gravely ill with malaria and has
asked Captain Hamelin to take command of the expedition in the
event of his death.
While the Naturaliste underwent extensive refitting, her officers
and scientists moved to shore based accommodation. They traded
iron pots, saws and hacksaws for poultry and pigs from the Timorese
people. The zoologist on the Géographe, Francois Péron, noted
sadly that there were men in Timor who were happy to trade the
sexual favours of their womenfolk for highly prized French knives
and other ironware. "Our sailors thought they were getting the
cheaper part of the bargain, but I tell you, they paid for it
later - eh bien! maladie vénérienne!" he commented.
Péron, who during the voyage has been a strong critic of Captain
Baudin, has been able to save the life of Baudin by sharing with
him a small supply of quinine bark. Péron was not of a strong
constitution but found that he was not at all affected by the
diseases that had struck so many of his shipmates. On 12th October
a Géographe gunner died of dysentery. Another died on the 18th,
the much loved gardener, Anselm Riedlé, died next and was buried
next to a gardener who had died on Bligh's ship the Bounty 10
years before. Captain Baudin was deeply saddened at the death
of Riedlé, "He was so eager to come on this voyage, he worked
so hard until his illness made it impossible for him" Captain
Baudin said "The last ten days of his life were extremely horrible.
We must leave Timor as soon as possible before we all lose our
lives here".
October/November 1801
French head south for Tasmania
English frigates sighted in the Semau Strait have interrupted
Captain Baudin's preparations for leaving Timor. The Dutch garrison
in Timor was prepared to defend their French guests however Baudin
sent one of his midshipmen out to show the English captain their
expedition passports. The English were most concerned to hear
of Captain Baudin's recent illness and offered a case of wine
to help him recover. The midshipman however felt he was not authorised
to accept such a gift. "We are at war with the English, let us
not forget" he explained.
The English sailed on but they unknowingly left behind another
kind of gift. One of their sailors deserted his ship and swam
four and a half mile to shore. He was recruited by the French
expedition, now short on crew because of recent death and sickness.
On 12th November, with all the livestock and the carefully maintained
plants gathered by Riedlé on board, the Géographe and Naturaliste
sailed out of Kupang Bay together. Although Captain Baudin was
still feverish he could not wait to leave. "We must leave this
pestilential place and find the fresher and healthier air of the
southern latitudes" he said. "We have left seven dead in Timor
already".
Within the next ten days at sea 12 more men died - all from dysentery.
Captain Baudin conducted a sea funeral for each man that died.
Their body was sewn into their hammock and they were cast into
the sea. "It seems as if we have strewn the oceans with our dead"
mourned Francois Péron.
The French expedition expects to reach Van Diemen's Land by January
and will take advantage of summer weather conditions to thoroughly
explore that coastline.
November 1801
Flinders cruising
Captain Flinders, using his experience of three previous voyages
from Cape Town to S-W New Holland, sailed the Investigator along
the 37th parallel. "This way I can avoid the roaring forties and
those nasty big, long swells" he explained. "We have had favourable
weather so far with only seven hours becalmed. I expect to see
Cape Leeuwin early December." The pumps have been used periodically,
but the leakage reported earlier seems to have been corrected,
with less than 2" per hour taken in.
Flinders is concerned to keep his crew in as good a health as
possible. During fine weather the men bring all their clothes
and bedding out on deck to dry and air them and below decks is
opened up to allow plenty of ventilation. "When it rains we are
wet and uncomfortable, but when it is dry, well mate, there is
no place I would rather be" said one of the older sailors. "and
we always get our grog ration, bang on half an hour after tea,
every night".
Perhaps of equal importance was the brew that Flinders ordered
for every man on board. A pint of wort was made by pouring boiling
water over essence of malt, and this, with half a ships biscuit
was the midday meal. Antiseptics of sour kraut and vinegar were
also issued on demand. Flinders was adopting the most up to date
methods known to keep scurvy at bay. This disease, a result of
insufficient vitamin C, is painful and fatal if untreated.
At Flinders sailed toward southern Australia, with orders to chart
its coastline, Captains Baudin and Hamelin were sailing south,
a lot further off western Australia, making a beeline for Van
Diemen's Land, with their own orders for charting and making scientific
observations.
December 1801
Flinders reaches Australia
On December 8th 1801 Matthew Flinders anchored the Investigator
in King George's Sound, sandy bottom of 8 fathoms.
"My first priority is the complete refurbishment of the ship"
he said, "and then the true purpose of my expedition can begin".
Captain Flinders explained that although he had orders to begin
his survey at 130 longitude, just about at the head of The Great
Australian Bight, he thought it worthwhile to go over coast previously
chartered by Vancouver and la Pérouse. "Just to verify their readings,
you know. Our instruments can be subject to error".
The crew of the Investigator worked on stripping the masts and
repairing sails and rigging at safe anchorage in Princess Royal
Harbour. Captain Flinders and his ship's Master, Mr Thistle established
a shore camp with easy communication to the ship. A marine guard
was set and observatory established. At this stage there had been
no sighting of aboriginal people.
"There has been someone here though, we found trees that have
been cut with an axe" said Mr Thistle "and the Captain came across
an old vegie garden". The men also found a copper plaque engraved
' August 27 1800, Chr. Dixon, ship Elligood'.
The English made the most of their first landfall in Australia.
The crew were allowed ashore on Sundays. "Bit of larking about,
it is good for them" laughed Mr Thistle. During a long trek along
the coast Mr Brown, the botanist and Mr Westall, the artist noticed
smoke at a distance. They walked along the beach some way and
met with an aboriginal man who was hostile toward them. He fired
the bush behind him to prevent their following him while women
and children were seen running inland. The following day a delegation
of tall, slender aboriginal men, dressed in kangaroo cloaks and
armed with spears met the English at their shore camp. Mr Purdie,
the surgeon approached them unarmed and by sign language was able
to win their trust. They exchanged gifts of red nightcaps and
other personal belongings for spears and stone hatchets.
Captain Flinders was pleased that their first contact with the
native people of Australia had gone so well. "We met with the
men every day, there was always something of mutual interest for
us all" he said, "but at no time were we allowed to see their
wives and children. This is understandable I suppose, after all,
we must have seemed most strange to these people, I doubt they
have ever seen a man with white skin".
December 1801
Focus on Flinders
Captain Flinders plans to spend a month at King George's Sound
putting his ship in order for the coming months of exploration.
"All I need is for my wife Anne to be with me and I would be the
happiest of men" he said. "Ever since I read Robinson Crusoe as
a boy I have wanted to explore unknown coastlines. My father was
not at all keen on my going to sea but I would not be deterred
at any price."
Matthew Flinders joined the navy at 15, and at 17 sailed with
Captain Bligh on one of his post-Bounty voyages. He found Captain
Bligh to be a bad-tempered man, not particularly popular with
the ship's officers but a skilled navigator. During this time
Flinders gained valuable experience using the new nautical timepieces
so essential for accurate navigation. His father hoped that Matthew
would publish a journal of this voyage and make some money with
its sale, "I was not ready for a literary career though," explained
Flinders, "my next trip was to the new colony of NSW, that was
in 1794. I was 20 years old by then, and I took my young brother
Samuel with me - he was only 12, and classed as a volunteer."
This voyage took Governor Hunter as replacement for Governor Phillip
and it established Flinders reputation as a navigator of distinction.
It was also where Flinders met George Bass, travelling as the
ship's surgeon. Both young men were from Lincolnshire and both
loved discovery.
For the next three years Flinders was engaged in running supplies
to Norfolk Island and made a trip to Cape Town to bring back desperately
needed livestock. One hundred and nine head of cattle and more
than 100 sheep made the return trip a very difficult one.
In between their official duties Bass and Flinders found time
to do some exploring. "We fitted an 8 ft dinghy with mast and
sail, called it the Tom Thumb!" laughed Flinders, "and took it
out the Heads and down to Botany Bay, sailed up the George's River
20 miles past the previous survey. Gov. Hunter set up a depot
there on our recommendation. He called it Bankstown." A slightly
bigger boat, Tom Thumb II, took them adventuring south of Botany
Bay. "We ran into some huge surf on this trip. Bass held onto
the sail, I was on the tiller and young William was baling for
his life. We only survived because we found a sheltered cove.
Providence Cove, we named it."
George Bass established almost beyond doubt the existence of a
strait between Van Diemen's Land and the continent of Australia.
When he and Flinders sailed through it and back to Sydney via
the southern tip of the island it was named, on Flinders recommendation,
Bass Strait. "Recalling those exciting times gives me great satisfaction"
said Flinders, "and the prospect of the unknown coast ahead of
me now is more thrilling than I can say."
December 1801
Flinders still at King George Sound
After 5 months at sea Flinders and his men have enjoyed the chance
to explore on land. With 13 other men, including naturalists,
their servants and sailors, Flinders set out, fully armed and
provisioned for an excursion to the west of Princess Royal Harbour.
"I believe there a some lagoons in the area, and with a bit of
luck they will hold fresh water" he said.
Soon after starting out the party was met by an old aboriginal
man they had come to know at their tent site on the beach. He
was most insistent that they did not enter a wooded area ahead
and Flinders obliged him by taking a detour around it. Shortly
after they had reason to be grateful to the old man. One of the
sailors had picked up a snake by the tail, "The old fella knocked
it out of my hand, quick as a flash! Turns out it was deadly poisonous!"
the sailor explained. Flinders and his men spent the day wading
through swamps and struggling to push through thick brush scrub.
By evening they had reached some higher ground with fresh water
and camped the night.
The following morning they turned back "I could see no purpose
in pushing on, that swamp seemed to be taking us nowhere" said
Flinders, "mind you the return journey was no better, in a different
sort of way. We followed a sandy ridge and it was stinking hot
with no water at all". By sunset on the second day they were still
several miles from their beach camp. Mr Bauer, a wildlife artist,
collapsed from exhaustion, heat and thirst. He was cared for by
Mr Brown and a sailor who followed behind the main party, finally
reaching the beach at midnight.
A very sound night's sleep restored the weary men and they all
returned to the ship. It was only a Friday, but it was Christmas
day. After the crew had mustered on deck, Flinders gave them all
shore leave to enjoy the day. "We have spent Christmas in some
queer places," said one of the older sailors, "but this place
would have to be the furtherest away from anywhere that I have
ever been. Most of me mates put the day in fairly quiet, but a
couple of them really got stuck into the grog". Captain Flinders
hosted a Christmas dinner in his cabin for the officers and scientists.
The next day was business as usual, with repairs to the ship well
underway. Captain Flinders expects to leave the Sound by the new
year.
December 1801
Flinders puts on a show
After a month of work the Investigator was in good shape for the
trip east. Firewood and water was stowed on board, the ropes and
blocks refitted and sails repaired and shaped. Flinders gave orders
for the marines to assemble on shore in full dress uniform and
prepare for parade. "During our stay here, we have made friends
of the local tribe, I had the feeling that a bit of ceremony might
be something they would enjoy" he explained.
The marines were indeed an impressive sight with red coats, white
chest sashes and flashing muskets. Their aboriginal audience shouted
with delight. " I believe they liked the marine uniform so much
because it quite resembles the way they themselves decorate their
bodies with ochre" said Flinders, "but what really amazed them
was the fife and drums, I did not know how I was going to get
a bit of order so that the drill could begin, but once the men
presented arms and began formation manoeuvers the aborigines fell
silent and watched most earnestly. The best part was when our
friendly old man of deadly snake fame took up a staff and matched
to perfection the movements of my men". It was customary for drill
to end with a volley from the muskets. Flinders took the precaution
of warning the aborigines beforehand so that they would not be
alarmed at the sudden burst of gunfire.
After the parade the ships surgeon, Mr Bell, with the co-operation
of the aborigines, took their body measurements. They happily
gave him the name, in their own language, of various body parts,
and Mr Bell had them recorded. For example the name for head was
caat, the mouth was taa, the thigh was davaal.
Flinders had every reason to be happy with his first camp on the
unknown coast.
On board ship however there was a discipline matter to attend
to. A seaman was brought before the captain on charges of repeated
drunkenness and fighting for which he was given 36 lashes.
Later that day the shore camp was dismantled, the observatory
closed and the tents and instruments taken to the ship. On New
Years Day the Investigator weighed anchor but unfavourable winds
prevented leaving King George's Sound for a few days more. On
the 4th of January 1802 Captain Flinders, with first lieutenant
Fowler and Mr Brown the botanist went ashore for the last time,
leaving a bottle on top of Seal Island. It contained a parchment
with the dates of their stay at the Sound. They were not to know
that at that moment Captain Baudin was sailing 200 miles due south
on his way to Van Diemen's Land.
January 1802
Baudin in Van Diemen's Land
Captain Baudin first saw the south west coast of Van Diemen's
Land through driving rain and low clouds on 13th January 1802.
His crew shivered as hail beat down on them and frost hardened
on the deck. Great flocks of boobies, gulls and swallows followed
the ship as it bellied and rolled in rough seas, while dolphins
and whales served as escorts. "Nature seemed to mark our arrival
as auspicious" remarked Captain Baudin, "and indeed is was. I
hoped to build on the success of my trip to the West Indies, when
I astonished all of France with the specimens I brought back safely".
Baudin, who was the fifth child of a merchant family had suffered
prejudice during his seafaring career because he was not of noble
birth. Now 46 years old he had spent his life on merchant vessels,
taking every opportunity for private trading to boost his earnings
as a merchant ship captain.
The Géographe and Naturaliste found safe anchor in the D'Entrecasteaux
Channel and several boats were launched for the shore. Baudin
instructed Lieutenant Freycinet to take the longboat up the Huon
River, while he and Captain Hamlin took dinghies to Partridge
Island. Although the rain had stopped, strong winds and currents
pushed against the rowers so that it took and hour and a half
to make the 3 kilometres to shore. The French were greeted by
a group of aboriginal men who were unarmed, and apart from one
of the men who wore an animal skin across his back, quite naked.
Baudin noted their physical characteristics. "They were more pale
skinned than the African slaves I had transported and although
well proportioned had rather thin legs. I was most taken with
the heavy tattoos across their chest. All the men seemed genuinely
friendly and their wide smiles displayed beautiful white teeth".
Baudin had given strict instructions that the local tribesmen
were not to be harmed in any way. "Our officers gave them greeting
in the French way", explained a sailor, "vous savez, hugs and
kisses on both cheeks, alors les sauvges, they made a great speech
which, of course, we could not understand".
Baudin's men offered to share their lunch of bread and biscuit
but the aborigines showed no interest. They found the French uniform
much more attractive and were pleased to accept gifts of clothing
and implements. With such a friendly start to relations with the
local inhabitants, Captain Baudin was optimistic that much new
knowledge would be gained by his scientists. He ordered the men
back to the ship for the evening meal and wondered how Freycinet
was spending the night, away in the darkness of the dense, dark
rainforest.
January 1802
Flinders makes progress Eastwards
Matthew Flinders had yet to begin charting completely unknown
coastline as he sailed east from King George Sound. "We know that
about three other expeditions have seen the Archipelago of the
Recherche" he said, "the French were the last here in 1792. They
were looking for Captain la Pérouse who had sailed these parts.
They never found out what happened to him. The Archipelago and
Espérance Bay were named after the French ships of the search
party."
Weaving his way amongst the 200 islands, rocks and shoals that
made up the Archipelago, Flinders was concerned to find that he
had left it rather late in the day to find safe anchorage for
the night. Rather then head out to sea, he trusted his instincts
and sailed directly toward the mainland. The gamble paid off when
a wide sandy bay of 7 fathoms was found. The Investigator anchored
there for the next 5 days and Flinders named the place Lucky Bay.
While Mr Brown the botanist went ashore to collect plants the
ships crew set fishing lines. "We were doing alright too, but
then three huge sharks came by and scared all the fish away,"
explained one of the sailors. "We harpooned one of them and hauled
it on board, no easy job, I can tell you, bit like bringing up
the longboat." The shark was 12 feet long and more than 8 feet
in girth. A smelly specimen to have on deck, especially when its
stomach was opened up. Amongst the contents the men found two
halves of a seal which still had an aboriginal spear through it.
Mr Brown was delighted with the abundance of beautiful plants
and flowers found in the Lucky Bay area but could not report any
sign of pasture grass or arable land. On the 14th January the
Investigator left Lucky Bay but spent several more days amongst
the islands. Mr Thistle, the ships Master explored possible eastward
passages while more plant specimens were taken from the islands.
Several dozen geese where shot and found to be good eating and
some seal hunting also gave fresh meat.
Although Flinders gave every consideration to the scientists on
board, he devoted most of his energy to his charts. "I sailed
the Investigator close enough to the shore to be able to see waves
breaking and took down all readings as they were made," he earnestly
explained. "Of course we anchored out at sea for the night, but
I took care that we resumed the following day at the exact spot
where we had previously left off. I had the men take lead soundings
of the bottom every half hour and the thermometer and barometer
were read 3 times daily. The winding of the two timepieces I entrusted
to my brother Samuel and midshipman John Franklin." Flinders kept
these arrangements strictly adhered to and a routine was well
established by the time he reached the completely unknown coastline
along that part of the continent he named The Great Australian
Bight.
January 1802
Sizzling summer for Investigator
Flinders sailed the Investigator for more than 800 kilometres
along the coast of the Great Australian Bight, never more than
8 kilometres from the shore and saw nothing but towering cliffs.
He sent sailors to the top of the ship's mast which was 30 metres
high but even this did not give a better view of the interior.
"It was like sailing around massive castle walls" said the sailors,
"the Captain found it very frustrating. Landing a boat would have
been very dodgy, the seas were treacherous and even our best men
would have trouble getting up those massive cliffs. So what lay
beyond them was a mystery".
Fowlers Bay, named after the first lieutenant, was wide and sheltered
and came as a relief, but no fresh water or suitable fire wood
was found there. The ship sailed on with Flinders naming landmarks
along the way after his officers and scientists. For 10 days they
explored the islands of the Nuyts Archipelago, fishing and shooting
seals and birds for fresh meat. Denial Bay, so named partly for
its association with St Peter's island, disappointed Flinders
expectations of a chance to sail inland and launch a land expedition.
"Our entry was denied, so to speak" he explained. Shade temperatures
on the islands reached 100 degrees, more than 130 degrees in the
sun. Such conditions dried out the Investigator's planking and
Flinders once again re-arranged 4 tons of iron ballast to keep
the leaky seams above the water line.
While Flinders was sweltering in southern Australia the French
ships were enjoying the mild conditions of Van Diemen's Land.
Captain Baudin anchored the Géographe and Naturaliste at the mouth
of the Derwent River and established a hospital tent and observatory
on shore. While his crew prepared to take fresh water and fire
wood on board, Baudin discussed with Captain Hamelin plans to
send out two boating parties the following day. One to explore
the upper reaches of the Derwent, the other to survey Frederick
Henry Bay. Péron, who was to go with Freycinet up the Derwent
River was once again struck with the grandeur of the mountains,
"but most remarkable of all were the many fires we saw burning
across the mountains, great columns of smoke rose on all sides."
Péron said, "we did not understand why the native people wanted
to burn their forest. Peut-être it was a warning to us".
February 1802
Tragedy for Investigator
Midshipman Taylor spoke for all on board the Investigator when
he said "We began to think this whole trip was waste of time,
nothing but empty, dry coastline, but then our helmsman reported
a tide running from the north east. First time since we sailed
past Cape Leuwin way back in December". The ship's company wondered
what lay ahead - was there a great river, or a deep inlet, or
even a passage through to the Gulf of Carpentaria?
Flinders wanted no mistaking of their bearings at this important
point. He anchored the ship in a narrow passage between the mainland
and a large island. He and Master Thistle landed on the island
to take readings. While there they saw the usual abundant wildlife,
including an unusual spotted snake. "I held its head down with
the butt of my musket" explained Flinders "while Mr Thistle stitched
up its mouth with sail needle and twine - always goes prepared,
does Thistle" Flinders laughed. "We took the snake quite safely
back to our zoologist" The two men also saw a pair of sea eagles
take a grazing kangaroo.
Back on board the Investigator Flinders found that he and his
brother Samuel differed on the longitude of the island. Dusk was
falling and a safe anchorage was essential. The captain sent Mr
Thistle with Midshipman Taylor and six sailors in the red cutter
to look for a place to spend the night that would also give them
much needed fresh water. None of the men were ever seen again.
Peter Good, the gardener reported that while taking a walk around
the decks he watched as the red cutter left the mainland. He noticed
that they were making heavy going against wind and tide and when
next he looked he could see no sign of them. Flinders ordered
the blue cutter launched at once. Lieutenant Fowler spent two
hours searching the dark waters for his comrades. "The noise of
the breaking waves made it impossible for us to hear cries for
help. The tide was running out to sea, they must have been swept
clean away" he said. Captain Flinders fired the canon to recall
the search party to the ship.
The following day they found the red cutter, floating upside down,
its hull smashed by rock or reef. The only trace of its crew were
their footprints on the sandy beach, left there during their search
for water. Flinders named the place Memory Cove and erected a
copper plaque in memory of the men who had died. He named the
island where they had caught the snake Thistle Island and smaller
islands after the other seven men. In paying tribute to those
lost, Flinders spoke of his friend of 8 years, "Mr Thistle was
the best ship's master ever born, and a fine man, as they were
all, fine men".
On February 26th 1802 Flinders anchored the Investigator in a
great natural harbour that he named Port Lincoln, after his home
county of Lincolnshire.
February 1802
Baudin in Oyster Bay
A week of hot, humid weather delayed Captain Baudin from leaving
North-West Bay for more than a week. The oppressive heat was particularly
hard on René Maugé, a zoologist on the expedition who had been
ill since leaving Timor. At last on 17th February 1802,the French
ships were able to sail under light easterly winds up the east
coast of Van Diemen's Land. They rounded Capes Raoul and Pillar
and anchored in Oyster Bay on the west coast of Maria Island.
Two boats with the Freycinet brothers were sent to survey the
mainland, while two other boats would explore Maria and Schouten's
Islands. Monsieur Péron, always eager to make new discoveries,
went with the group to Maria Island. Péron's boat sailed past
towering granite cliffs until able to land in Riedlé Bay on the
island's east coast. While the rest of the crew got on with routine
survey tasks Péron set off for the interior. He followed a well
worn path through dense scrub until he came to a grassy clearing,
shaded by Casuarina trees. Within the clearing were domed huts
made of poles and bark. Inside the huts were wooden hoops held
in place with slabs of granite. Under the hoops were mounds of
fine grass. "Of course, I was most curious about the purpose of
such construction" Péron explained. "I went inside the hut and
found ashes and human bones. It was plain that the island people
had cremated their dead. As we had seen, fire was most important
to them, so it is logical, n'est-ce pas?"
While Péron was making his discoveries, the ships doctor reported
to Captain Baudin that René Maugé had died. Maugé, who was highly
regarded by Baudin for his meticulous scientific work, had joined
the French expedition against the advice of his Paris friends.
He was buried between two gum trees on the southern point of Oyster
Bay.
While mourning the loss of yet another of his men, Baudin was
cheered at Péron's discoveries. "The tombs were the most skilfully
and carefully-made things that we have seen, infinitely superior
to anything else we know of belonging to the natives".
Ships artist Nicolas Petit was sent with Péron and crew to sketch
the burial huts. They were accompanied by a large group of young
aboriginal men who greeted them on the beach. While Petit sat
down to draw, Péron used the time to learn some more of the native
language. He found that the men had no words for kissing or caressing.
"The concept was quite foreign to them, what delights they are
missing!" Péron chuckled. As the day wore on the French began
to feel less welcome. When the aboriginal men picked up their
spears Péron and Petit decided it would be a good time to leave.
With only a faulty musket to defend themselves they backed away
from the aborigines who were growing distinctly unfriendly. "We
were most relieved to get back to our boat, even then they followed
us along the shore" explained Petit. The hostile islanders disappeared
into the forest when Péron and his companions joined the other
French boats dragging for oysters in the bay.
February 1802
Flinders explores Port Lincoln
Although Flinders was grieving for the eight men drowned near
Thistle Island, he was mindful of the urgent need to find fresh
water. His men dug a pit on the shores of Port Lincoln harbour
but it filled with salty, undrinkable water. The presence of many
aboriginal huts encouraged Flinders to direct a search at Proper
Bay. This second attempt yielded water that was clouded with clay
but sweet tasting. Over the next six days the ships water reserves
of 60 tons were fully stocked.
While brother Samuel took daily observations at the shore camp
Flinders explored the surrounding country. He climbed 500 foot
Stamford Hill, "What a magnificent harbour lay before me," he
said, "enough to safely hold a whole fleet of ships. It is the
finest since King George Sound". The scientists were not so impressed
with the area. They found very few new plants and neither saw
nor heard from the owners of the huts. Mr Brown ventured to the
distant ocean shore that they had so recently sailed past. He
described it as "large, open and exposed with a dreadful surf
all round". He found the mainsail of the red cutter washed up
on this wild coast.
Samuel Flinders always seemed to be stuck with the tedious business
of winding the clocks and recording the movement of the sun. But
on March 4th he was given a real treat. "It was an almost total
eclipse of the sun!" he enthused, "only the very rim escaped obliteration
by the moon. Of course, Matthew had his 200 power telescope, but
even by the naked eye it was impressive."
After spending nine days in the harbour, Flinders and his men
packed up the tents and prepared to sail. "If we had stayed another
day I think we could have met with the local people" Flinders
explained, "they called out to one of my boat crew just as we
were leaving. I would have liked to know how they felt about the
solar eclipse."
Many features in this area were named by Flinders, who never named
a single place after himself. Boston Island was named in honour
of the birthplace of his friend George Bass and the Joseph Banks
Group of islands for his patron. On the 5th March 1802 the Investigator
proceeded north into unknown waters. At the same time Captain
Baudin sailed from Maria Island toward Bass Strait. He believed
he was to be the first European to chart the southern coast of
New Holland and had no idea that Flinders was already there.
March 1802
A dead end for Flinders
When Matthew Flinders sailed north of Port Lincoln he had hoped
for a passage to the Gulf of Carpentaria but mud flats and shoals
made it obvious that the water way was headed nowhere, "no sign
that we were in the mouth of a big river either," said Flinders
gloomily, "but a large mountain range to our east looked promising".
He anchored his ship in 5 fathoms after almost running aground
ahead of a strong gale blowing up from the south. The port and
starboard shores were no more than 4 miles apart.
At dawn on 10th March Robert Brown, botanist, Bauer & Westall,
artists, Peter Good, gardener, John Allen, miner and 2 servants
set off to climb the highest peak that could be seen in the ranges.
"We thought it looked about 5 miles away, just a bit of a stroll,"
explained Mr Brown, "all we had to do was get through half a mile
of mud and mangroves first!".
The men followed creek beds and tramped across grassy plains to
the base of the mountain. They had walked 15 miles, still had
to climb the peak and it was 2pm. Their two servants, loaded down
with baggage, were too exhausted to go on and set up camp to wait
for the scientists. "That mountain was very deceptive," Mr Brown
said "thought we would never get there, it was sunset before we
reached the top. We had to camp on the summit for the night. Not
a nice experience. No water at all, too dark to find fire wood
and the servants had our swags down at the bottom." At first light
they made their way down the slopes, "But blow me down," laughed
Peter Good, "Will Westall made us wait while he sketched the scenery,
and us perishing for a drink of water!"
While Mr Brown and his party were away Flinders, with Surgeon
Bell and crew rowed the red cutter up the gulf, climbed a bluff
on the western shore, took bearings and spent the night in the
cutter amongst the mangroves. Next morning they tried to bag a
few black swans for fresh meat, "We found out that these birds
were very good at dodging musket balls, spent all day chasing
them and lost our way in the salt creeks" recalled Flinders "it
was after 10pm before we got back to ship and heard all about
Mr Brown's chilly night on the mountain."
Investigator sailed south, keeping well away from the shallow
eastern side of the gulf. On 19th March the coast trended sharply
to the west. Flinders dropped anchor at Corny Point, well sheltered
from the southerly winds. Bearings on the islands to the west
confirmed that Flinders had completed the survey of the gulf,
which he called Spencer, after an earl at the Admiralty. He named
the 3,000 ft mountain Mount Brown, much to the delight of the
botanist.
March 21st
Flinders shelters at Kangaroo Island
Investigator battled against a fierce south west gale to reach
calm waters in the lee of a high heavily wooded coastline to the
south of Corny Point. The following morning Flinders sailed east
for 70 miles, "I wanted to know if we were looking at the mainland"
he explained, "but we saw no sign of camp fires or people." Strong
winds drove Investigator past a wide sheltered bay toward its
eastern headland where Flinders anchored for the night, half a
mile off a small sandy beach.
All on board were eager to explore once again. "Some of the young
gentlemen tried to tell us they could see moving rocks on the
beach!" laughed a sailor, "very vivid imaginations, these young
fellas!" Once on shore the rocks turned out to be large dark brown
kangaroos who had no fear of men. Flinders shot ten with his double
barrel shotgun, altogether 29 kangaroos were killed. They ranged
in weight from 69 to 125 pounds. "And what a feast did we have,
heads and forequarters for soup and enough steak for even us ordinary
seamen to get a share," a sailor commented. Flinders named this
southern land Kangaroo Island [in fact: Kanguroo Island], all
aboard agreed it was most appropriate.
While repairs to the rigging were in progress Flinders attempted
to reach high ground to see the lay of the land but dense undergrowth
and tall trees prevented him from seeing much. "I noted many fallen
and rotten trees, seems as if there had been a great fire through
the forest some time ago - lightening perhaps was the cause" he
reported later. Peter Good and Robert Brown walked east and were
pleased to find some new plants, and a spring of water amongst
shoreline rocks.
Fire wood for the ships oven, and fresh water was loaded. The
now shy kangaroos were less easy to shoot but some were taken
for more fresh meat. "I have noted," said Flinders "that from
our first arrival the seals who live under bushes quite some way
from the shore have been quite sure that we are not kanguroos
but I think the kanguroos thought at first that we were seals!"
Flinders spent 3 days sounding the strait between Kangaroo Island
and the mainland. He found it to be deepest nearer the island
but safe for ships generally and named it Investigator Strait.
On March 27th his ship sailed up a large inlet on the mainland
taking soundings until midnight. The following morning Investigator
was becalmed within sight of a fine mountain range rising above
the coastal plain. The country was well timbered and fertile.
Numerous camp fires sent smoke into the morning air. It was Sunday
so Flinders ordered the ships company to scrub the ship, wash
themselves and prepare for inspection.
April 1802
Flinders returns to Kangaroo Island
Matthew Flinders spent the last 5 days of March mapping the Gulf
he named St Vincent. Shallow mudflats that teemed with rays prevented
further progress north. He and Robert Brown aborted an attempt
to reach hummock hills 8 miles inland at the head of the gulf.
"With winter on the way I couldn't risk a rough trip to Sydney,"
explained Flinders, "besides, I needed to return to Kanguroo Island
for more fresh meat."
Investigator ran before a light breeze and anchored 2 miles west
of their former anchorage at 11 pm 1st April. Shore parties the
following day gathered more fire wood and shot a few kangaroos
while the naturalists explored the beach. Departure was delayed
when it came to the captain's notice that the clocks had been
allowed to run down, either by his brother Samuel or Mr John Franklin,
senior midshipman. "It meant we had to establish ourselves on
the beach and make our observations all over again so that we
could reset the clocks. Correct time was essential to accurate
readings of our position," Flinders explained, clearly annoyed
at the delay.
Leaving Samuel busy making amends with the instruments, Flinders
and Brown took the cutter through a narrow opening that revealed
a large lagoon in the southwest corner of Nepean Bay. The men
climbed a high Sandhill that gave them views in all directions.
They were able to see the low rugged cliffs of the south coast
and Flinders spied distant Mt Lofty with his telescope. He named
the Sandhill Prospect Hill for the vistas that rewarded their
climb.
They explored the eastern branch of the lagoon which was dotted
with four islands, one high and wooded, the others grassy and
low. "There were great numbers of pelicans in the lagoon" said
Robert Brown, "we saw their nestlings on the islands and immense
flocks sitting on the shores." The explorers also noted a quantity
of pelican skeletons. They camped for the night at the entrance
to Pelican Lagoon, eating oysters around their campfire. Flinders
could not forget the sights they had seen that day. "Those birds
had chosen a hidden lagoon on an uninhabited island, off the unknown
coast of a continent on the far side of the globe," he mused "It
seemed to me to be pelican paradise. Those majestic birds could
hatch, live and die amongst their own kin, who could ask for more?
Alas, for the pelicans! Their golden age is past (...)"
On board the Investigator surgeon Bell had to deal with seaman
Richard Daley who had been badly bitten by a seal he had been
taunting with a stick. "The man will be crippled for life, a severe
wound" Bell reported later to Captain Flinders.
On 6th April Flinders set the Investigator on a course east of
Cape Jervis, confident that the timekeepers had not lost accuracy.
Text © by:
Mrs Meredith Geyer
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